Fly Fishing the best tips

The reproduction of the trouts requires special conditions. The fact to fish outside the dates authorized implies a new element of alteration: the death of reproducers and the loss – to medium term of one of main attractive the tourist ones of the region.
We reiterated that we talked about exotic species. The Law protects the native fauna in all the cases.
The fishing modalities go from spinning (with teaspoon from the coast) or trolling (it fishes embarked), to fly-casting (it fishes with fly). The places for each modality will be able to consult them in the regulation of fishing or the tourist information bureaus. In order to acquire equipment specific commerce very well assorted exists. An advice: to always resort to the services of a fishing guide. Many and very good exist, and will be the best election to guarantee an unforgettable day
1. Use a double taper line for your dry line fishing. Many shops and instructors like to have a new caster use the weight forward dry line because it gives the illusion of greater distance and power than a double taper line. This is truly an illusion. The weight forward line is a shooting head and has all the benefits and drawbacks of a shooting head. A given rod will throw a weight forward farther than a double taper, but not much. A double taper first of all feels like a fly line. It has a silky, comfortable feel and has the virtue of demanding a little better technique and understanding of the casting process. A double taper will mend beautifully. It can be reversed when one end wears out. With your double taper floater you can roll cast like nobody’s business out to fifty or seventy feet, depending on the bushes. A double taper will execute a Spey cast just fine with a single-handed fly rod. This is valuable when you are back to back with trees and bushes. If you have ten or fifteen feet behind you a dynamic roll cast will get you way more than fifty feet into the river or lake. The place you need a weight forward dry line is tropical surface fishing for bones and tarpon etc. where you need lots of distance in a hurry.
2. Buy a stiff double taper dry line. This is not a commercial site but you can find high end lines that are stiffer than the others and these will make casting much more of a joy. The stiff line shoots through the guides more readily and it does not tangle like the very flexible ones.
3. Don’t be too lazy to use line dressing on your dry line regularly. The line picks up algae and dirt and gets to be not so smooth. If you dress it you not only remove the scum but you lubricate the line and it shoots through the guides like a dream. It also floats higher which is particularly helpful when you are making that fifty-foot roll cast.
4. Concentrate on your back cast. With a good strong straight back cast the fore cast or lay down is a snap. It is the back cast that counts.
5. Practice for short periods regularly. One way to induce this good habit is to keep a rod set up in your garage or closet and step outside for a few minutes whenever you feel like it and practice something. We cut little circles or squares from plastic milk jugs, punch a small hole with an awl, the sharp point on a compass or any such tool and then cut a slit from the edge to the hole with a jack knife. We pull the tippet through this by the practice fly or yarn fly and leave the rod either fully assembled or half and half with the leader straight. We walk out the door and Voila! we are fishing. ( well almost)
6. When you practice something. Always have an objective. You can practice on the sidewalk, across the street, in the parking strip or anywhere but have an objective. Becoming a journeyman fly caster is like learning a musical instrument, basketball, tennis or any other skill. Practice is focused on one or two points at a time.
7. Be prepared to backslide on what you know while you are adding to your fly-casting skills. It is a normal learning pattern to make two steps forward and then one step back.
8. Take a blond, brunette, redhead, grey head, silver head or any head fishing with a fly rod. Fly casting is not a gender specific sport. We know couples where the wife casts in tournaments and fishes and the husband goes along to enjoy the camaraderie and the scenery. We know couples where the man is the caster and the woman does the bird watching.
9. Critique one another. If you have a friend who thinks casting is a worthwhile pursuit watch each other cast and dissect your strokes. The most telling signal of good or bad practice is the character of the back cast. It tells more about the state of your progress than anything else.
10. Watch your own back cast from time to time. We have seen casting works that recommend that the caster watch every back cast and we have seen others that recommend that the caster never look at the back cast. Neither of these positions is tenable. Turning your head or body to observe your back cast disturbs the geometry of your arm and shoulder joints etc. and is not ideal body mechanics but you must know what is going on behind you to evaluate your cast. Ultimately you will become so grooved that the friendly little tug of the line will announce that you’re on the right track. We have film of a world champion caster who looks at his back cast in distance events. He does this to see if the line is straightened out and in an optimum position to accept the strength he will put into the final forecast.
11. Wait for the friendly little tug of your line on the back cast. In order to feel this tug you must have a short stroke on the back cast, about 1:00 or 1:30 is fine. The farther back you get the less you can feel the tug of the back cast. After 2:00 it is pretty subtle.
12. For long and powerful roll casts learn the dynamic roll cast. The basic roll cast is taught in the static mode – the rod drawn back to about the 1:00 o’clock position, letting the line fall and then making the casting stroke forward. The cast works because you have put enough line behind you to be able to impel it forward. For a dynamic roll cast you throw a small loop of the line behind you and commence the casting stroke while the line is still bellied out behind. You doted full casting stroke – load the rod with hand movement, add the power stroke with mainly wrist movement and snap the tip. This will drive the line out in a fifty or sixty foot roll cast. You can snap it high to get the line into the air for a soft dry fly landing or you can snap it farther forward and make the line roll out on the water for a wet fly presentation or to overcome the wind. It is important to start the forward casting stroke immediately after the loop of line bellies out behind. There are two reasons: First, the line is at its’ maximum distance behind, giving you more room for the loading part of your stroke. Second, the floating part of the line has come to the top of the surface and has no time to sink a little bit and slow down your cast. I first saw this at a fishing show and was astonished at the power. The amount of line you can throw behind is dependent on the amount of space behind. If there is fifteen feet clearance behind you can throw a fifteen foot belly of line behind – that’s thirty feet of line you are moving forward. This dynamic roll cast blends all the way from the static roll cast with the line hanging straight down from the rod tip two feet behind your ear to a full blown power roll with not much more than the leader and a little bit of line remaining on the water. The amount you throw behind depends on how much room there is and how far you want to roll cast. The Spey cast is a variety of dynamic roll cast or the dynamic roll cast is a spey cast in a straight line. This cast is very useful fishing and for hitting targets in accuracy games. Try to keep the back toss as close to your body as possible without fouling. It works fine on the off shoulder also. You can get just as much power on the off shoulder when the line is down stream on that side or the wind is blowing from your dominant side. Try it. You’ll like it. Warning – It takes practice to get the feel and timing down.
13. If you want to improve your range and distance and are willing to practice try to practice with a medium stiff rod. The softer the rod the easier it is to tail your loop and overpower the rod. If you concentrate on loading the rod before cranking in the power stroke, the softer rod will discipline your stroke by giving a horrendous tailing loop if you load or haul too fast. Then when you are out there with your cannon rod, the slower motions forced by the soft rod will permit you to load the rod nicely and then apply the horsepower.
14. The softer rod will also give you a chance to acquire a feel for delaying the haul until the rod is loaded. We all have experienced the paradox of doing a languorous sleepy sort of cast and being surprised at the way the line flew out there. Then when we try to really do it and make it really go we get a short untidy cast. A haul started before the rod is bent – loaded- from the inertia of the line will distort a good loading motion by further bending the tip toward the ground, driving the line down and expending part of the haul in bending the rod rather than moving the line.
15. One effect of a good load is a heavy feel to the rod. If the rod feels heavy during the power stroke you will know that you have both straightened out the line before loading and loaded the rod at the right tempo. This is true on both false casts and back casts. If the rod feels light you know that you are not adding as many foot-pounds of kinetic energy to the line as you are when the rod feels heavy. The faster the line is moving the more foot pounds of kinetic energy it has to carry it through the air resistance.